VISITING THE NEW TEXTILE MUSEUM IN MEXICO CITY! 

Collage: museum exterior, Museo Textil de los Pueblos Indígenas y Afromexicanos sign, detailed textile art, and a mannequin dressed in colorful traditional clothing.

By Rocío Mena Gutiérrez

Photos by : Rocío Mena Gutiérrez

Lea la versión en español

The Textile Museum of Indigenous and Afro-American Peoples (Museo Textil de los pueblos indígenas y afro-americanos) just opened in Mexico City last June and I finally visited it last week.

Mexico City is my hometown, so as a a textile passionate and a local I will give you my impressions of this museum, which is the only one in this city that is dedicated completely to textiles.

First of all, I think the location is quite interesting. It is located in Mexico City’s Zocalo (downtown), just in front of “El Templo Mayor” archeological site. If you are not familiar with Mexico City’s Zocalo, the easiest way to get there would be go to the Cathedral, and then it is just a 5 minute walk from there. ( I would recommend you using google maps once you get there)

People walk past a historic stone building with columns and red banners on a city sidewalk. The sky is overcast and the perspective is angled upward.
Building Museum
Black geometric logo above bold letters MUT with text below: Museo Textil de los Pueblos Indígenas y Afromexicanos on a light gray background.

Designed by the renowned architect Manuel Tolsá, the Museum is located in a beautiful Neoclassic Building called “La casa del Marqués del Apartado”, built between 1795 and 1805.

The building was commissioned for Francisco de Fagoaga (the Marqués of Apartado). In addition to its colonial era significance, the site preserves Prehispanic archaeological remains, including remnants of a sacred Mexica staircase whose origins still remain a mystery.

Although it is not known for certain which deity the structure was dedicated to, it is believed that where the museum stands today was once part of the sacred precinct of Mexico-Tenochtitlan. On the first floor, you can see the prehispanic staircase and visit a gallery where you can learn more about its history and significance.

Wide view of a historic buildings open courtyard with stone steps and excavation in the center, surrounded by yellow walls, balconies, and a glass-roofed upper floor. A few people walk or stand on the stone floor.
Prehispanic staircase seen from above
A large, sunken stone structure with steps and patterned floor, surrounded by metal railings. An individual stands nearby, and orange cones are visible in the background.
Prehispanic staircase

As you go up the stairs you will find a mural called “Nuestra Cultura” made by Isabel Morales Martínez and Juan José Dámaso, where they represent the daily lives of their communities.

A staircase with ornate black railings leads to a landing featuring a large black-and-white mural of a cityscape. The floor has a black and white checkered pattern; exhibition displays are visible to the left.
Mural “Nuestra Cultura”
Black and white artwork depicts people carrying baskets and jars, some riding donkeys, with a village, trees, and large floral patterns framing the scene.
Mural made by Isabel Morales Martínez and Juan José Dámaso

The Textile tour begins on the second floor, with 12 textile galleries dedicated to different subjects, all translated to Nahuatl (prehispanic language) and English. 

I really loved the idea of having them in Nahuatl also, I think it’s a way of honoring our past and heritage.

Red sign with three QR codes labeled for Spanish, English, and Náhuatl. Each QR code provides information in the respective language. An ear and chat icon are at the top of the sign.
A museum room with ornate ceiling molding, a chandelier, wooden floors, and display cases containing textiles and garments. Light streams in from small upper windows.

The first galleries are dedicated to backstrap looms, cotton and other fibers.

A traditional loom displays a partially woven, intricate red textile with geometric patterns in a museum exhibit with wooden flooring and informational panels in the background.
Backstrap loom at the First gallery
A display case with a traditional weaving loom, yarn, two drop spindles, and four woven bags with colorful patterns, all against a dark background in a museum setting.
First gallery

Another gallery is dedicated to natural dyeing techniques, including indigo and caracól púrpura. 

“Caracól púrpura” is the local snail where color purple comes from. It is a very specific species called plicopurpura columellaris, different from the European one. It can be found in Huatulco Bay Area in Oaxaca. It is an endangered species but following the right procedures, some communities continue to dye with this snail. 

Unlike the European species, this snail does not need to be killed in order to dye with it. You simply blow on it to release the secretion. However, it is endangered due to tourism in the area and its use in ceviche dishes.

A white woven textile with vertical lavender stripes and intricate patterns, featuring a central slit at the top, likely resembling a traditional garment or cloth panel.
Huipil dyed with caracol purpura / San Mateo Del Mar Oaxaca
A woven textile features intricate purple and cream geometric patterns in horizontal stripes, with fringe tassels along the bottom edge.
Textile dyed with caracol purpura / San Pedro Huamelula Oaxaca
Yarn samples in various colors—pink, red, green, blue, black, and yellow—are neatly arranged in rows on a wooden surface, separated by metal rods and viewed through a clear display case.
Naturally dyed threads
Display showing a row of shells or stones above the words Hembra and Macho, with fiber bundles below. The items are arranged by size from left to right, suggesting a comparison between female and male.
Olicopurpura columelares, caracol purpura, Oaxaca / snail used to dye purple

Other galleries focus on silk, wool and tapestries.

A large, colorful woven textile with bold geometric diamond patterns in red, pink, black, and beige hangs on a white wall above a glass display case.
Tapestry from Contla, Tlaxcala

Sarapes and colchas ( bedcoverings) are also part of the exhibition, as well as light textiles woven with fine threads where light and transparency have a special role.

Black and white textile with intricate, symmetrical patterns, including floral, heart, and geometric motifs, and a zigzag border on the right. The design has a traditional and ornamental appearance.
Colcha (bedcovering) from the first part of 19th century
Red and black fabric with a grid of cream-colored floral and geometric patterns, including crisscross diamonds and stylized flowers, creating a bold, repetitive design.
Colcha (bedcovering) Otomí
A cream-colored textile with a red and purple geometric border on one side, featuring small dotted patterns scattered across the fabric.
Sarape from Saltillo, Mexico
A sheer white garment with horizontal textured stripes is displayed against a wooden background. The garment has a rectangular shape and a square, opaque section near the top center.
Huipil Amuzgo / Guerrero Mexico
A vertical loom with white threads and an unfinished weaving in a geometric pattern is displayed against a wooden wall, with a small red information plaque to the right.
Backstrap weaving / Chiapas Mexico

One of the most interesting projects on display at the museum is the recreation of an 18th-Century Nahua Tilma now preserved at the Museo delle Civiltà in Rome.

A Tilma was a traditional prehispanic cloak or mantle worn by indigenous people before the Spanish conquest. It was usually made from woven plant fibers like cotton and worn draped over the shoulders.

The replica was created by three artisans, it took them nearly five months to complete, and it was an effort to recover traditional techniques and preserve textile heritage.

The piece was woven on a backstrap loom using techniques such as brocade and tapestry weaving. It also incorporates unusual materials like silk and feathers.

A museum exhibit displays a textile on the left, woven pieces in a central case, and a mannequin dressed in traditional clothing in a glass case, all on a polished wooden floor.
Replica of the Nahua Tilma : Tlamachayatl
A colorful textile featuring a large, symmetrical, abstract bird with outstretched wings, surrounded by geometric and animal patterns on a dark background.
Replica of the Nahua Tilma : Tlamachayatl
Colorful woven textile with intricate patterns and figures, some covered with fluffy white wool. The edge has a geometric black-and-white border and touches of yellow, blue, and brown. The background is primarily dark blue.
Feathers were woven in this textile

As a natural dyer myself, I especially enjoyed an interactive video with explanations and poems about dyeing plants and local techniques. 

I quote a few of these poems:

“Color speaks like an ancient echo that still breathes within the earth…”

“Indigo blue is immersed and fermented, and when it touches the air, it is born…”

A dimly lit room with a wall displaying colorful plant illustrations and Spanish text, illuminated by soft orange and purple lighting. The floor is wooden, and a fire extinguisher is visible on the left.
Interactive video

Nocheztli – Nahuatl name for cochineal which means prickly pear blood.

Xiuhquilitl – Nahuatl name for indigo, which means blue herb.

A white wall displays digital art with purple dotted waves and floating, colorful 3D flowers and plants. A wooden floor is in the foreground. The room is dimly lit.
Interactive video

On the third floor there are some galleries dedicated to Temporary Textile Exhibitions. Unfortunately, the day that I visited they were closed due to maintenance.

I really enjoyed visiting this Museum and the Exhibitions. It is a really nice building that joins Prehispanic and Colonial heritage. I think getting to see the Prehispanic staircase is a plus. 

I love the pieces exhibited, but I personally think that some information is missing. While the pieces are beautiful and unique, the explanation about the process is not very clear. In some pieces I would like to read more specific information about the origin of the pieces, weaving techniques and natural dyes used.

However, it is a new museum and I’m sure they are still adding information and making improvements. I definitely recommend it! I think it is worth the visit.

There is a FONART store next door, where you can find really fine textiles and crafts brought directly from the artisans.

And as a last tip, I would recommend eating lunch at a restaurant just across the street with a really nice view of the Zocalo. It is called “Restaurante el Mayor” and it offers good Mexican food.  The entrance is through the library called PORRUA, then you take the elevator, and you’ll find the restaurant terrace. (Address:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/wMrWPNE39vjfsDvN7)

A vertical red banner on a stone building reads COMPRA ORIGINAL, COMPRA FONART. Another banner below mentions MUSEO TEXTIL. Part of an umbrella and cloudy sky are visible.
FONART store
Large wooden double doors open to a modern interior with hanging woven light fixtures, a check-in counter, and colorful decor, viewed from just outside the entrance.
FONART store – next door
People walk along a paved city sidewalk next to historic buildings and an archaeological site, under a cloudy sky. Signs and street lamps are visible, and some pedestrians carry bags.
El Mayor -Restaurant – seen from the museum
A street corner in a city with a large, historic stone building featuring wooden windows. People walk on the sidewalk near store entrances, and traffic lights are visible.
El Mayor- Terrace Restaurant on top of this building

Museo Textil de los pueblos indígenas y afro-americanos

Address: Calle República de Argentina #12, Centro Histórico de la Cdad. de México, Centro, Cuauhtémoc, 06000 Ciudad de México.    https://share.google/Vmfr2qyb1g7Mb0bDo

Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, from 10am to 6pm 

Cost: $95 Mexican pesos (around US $5.50 or CAD $7.65 )

Rocío Mena Gutiérrez has been a WARP member since 2014 and part of the Board since 2022. She is a Mexican Designer, Natural dyer and indigo passionate living in Mexico City. Instagram @zikurialquimia



– SPANISH VERSION-

Visitando el nuevo Museo Textil en la Ciudad de Mexico.

Por Rocío Mena Gutiérrez

Fotos por Rocío Mena Gutiérrez

El Museo Textil de los Pueblos Indígenas y Afroamericanos abrió sus puertas en la Ciudad de México apenas el pasado mes de junio, y finalmente tuve la oportunidad de visitarlo la semana pasada.

La Ciudad de México es mi ciudad natal y soy una apasionada de los textiles, así que, como local, quiero compartirles mis impresiones sobre este museo, el único de la ciudad dedicado completamente a los textiles.

Para empezar, creo que su ubicación es bastante interesante. Se encuentra en el Zócalo de la Ciudad de México, en pleno Centro Histórico, justo frente a la zona arqueológica del Templo Mayor. Si no conoces bien el Zócalo, la manera más sencilla de ubicarte es llegar a la Catedral Metropolitana, el museo está a unos cinco minutos caminando desde ahí.

People walk past a historic stone building with columns and red banners on a city sidewalk. The sky is overcast and the perspective is angled upward.
Edificio del Museo visto desde afuera
Black geometric logo above bold letters MUT with text below: Museo Textil de los Pueblos Indígenas y Afromexicanos on a light gray background.

El museo se encuentra dentro de un hermoso edificio neoclásico conocido como la Casa del Marqués del Apartado, construido entre 1795 y 1805 y diseñado por el reconocido arquitecto Manuel Tolsá.

El edificio fue mandado construir para Francisco de Fagoaga, marqués del Apartado. Además de su importancia como edificio de la época virreinal, el lugar conserva vestigios arqueológicos prehispánicos, entre ellos los restos de una escalinata sagrada mexica cuyo origen sigue siendo un misterio.

Aunque no se sabe con certeza a qué deidad estaba dedicada esta construcción, se cree que los terrenos donde hoy se encuentra el museo formaban parte del recinto sagrado de México-Tenochtitlan. En el primer piso puedes ver la escalinata prehispánica y visitar una sala donde podrás conocer más sobre su historia y significado.

Wide view of a historic buildings open courtyard with stone steps and excavation in the center, surrounded by yellow walls, balconies, and a glass-roofed upper floor. A few people walk or stand on the stone floor.

Escalinata Prehispánica encontrada en el museo
A large, sunken stone structure with steps and patterned floor, surrounded by metal railings. An individual stands nearby, and orange cones are visible in the background.
Escalinata Prehispánica encontrada en el museo

Al subir las escaleras encontrarás un mural llamado “Nuestra Cultura”, realizado por Isabel Morales Martínez y Juan José Dámaso, en el que representan la vida cotidiana de sus comunidades.

A staircase with ornate black railings leads to a landing featuring a large black-and-white mural of a cityscape. The floor has a black and white checkered pattern; exhibition displays are visible to the left.
Mural “Nuestra Cultura”
Black and white artwork depicts people carrying baskets and jars, some riding donkeys, with a village, trees, and large floral patterns framing the scene.
Mural” Nuestra Cultura”

El recorrido textil comienza en el segundo piso, con 12 salas dedicadas a diferentes temas textiles, cuyos textos se encuentran traducidos al náhuatl, una lengua de origen prehispánico,  y al inglés.

Me encantó la idea de que la información también estuviera en náhuatl, ya que creo que es una manera de honrar nuestro pasado y nuestro patrimonio cultural.

Red sign with three QR codes labeled for Spanish, English, and Náhuatl. Each QR code provides information in the respective language. An ear and chat icon are at the top of the sign.

A museum room with ornate ceiling molding, a chandelier, wooden floors, and display cases containing textiles and garments. Light streams in from small upper windows.

Las primeras salas están dedicadas al telar de cintura, las fibras y al algodón.

A traditional loom displays a partially woven, intricate red textile with geometric patterns in a museum exhibit with wooden flooring and informational panels in the background.
Telar de cintura en la primera galería
A display case with a traditional weaving loom, yarn, two drop spindles, and four woven bags with colorful patterns, all against a dark background in a museum setting.
Primera galería

Otra de las salas está dedicada a las técnicas de teñido natural, incluyendo el índigo y el caracol púrpura.

El caracol púrpura es un molusco local del que se obtiene el color morado. Se trata de una especie muy particular llamada Plicopurpura columellaris, diferente de las especies utilizadas antiguamente en Europa. Se encuentra en la zona de las bahías de Huatulco, Oaxaca. Es una especie en peligro de extinción, pero siguiendo los procedimientos adecuados, algunas comunidades todavía continúan la tradición de teñir con este caracol.

A diferencia de la especie europea, no es necesario matar a este caracol para teñir con él. Simplemente se sopla sobre él para que libere su secreción. Sin embargo, se encuentra en peligro de extinción debido al turismo en la zona, su uso en la preparación de ceviches, entre otras razones.

A white woven textile with vertical lavender stripes and intricate patterns, featuring a central slit at the top, likely resembling a traditional garment or cloth panel.
Huipil teñido con caracol purpura
A woven textile features intricate purple and cream geometric patterns in horizontal stripes, with fringe tassels along the bottom edge.
Textilteñido con caracol purpura
Yarn samples in various colors—pink, red, green, blue, black, and yellow—are neatly arranged in rows on a wooden surface, separated by metal rods and viewed through a clear display case.
Hilos teñidos con tintes naturales
Display showing a row of shells or stones above the words Hembra and Macho, with fiber bundles below. The items are arranged by size from left to right, suggesting a comparison between female and male.
Olicopurpura columelares, caracol purpura, Oaxaca / usado para teñir color morado

Otras salas se enfocan en la seda, la lana y los tapices.

A large, colorful woven textile with bold geometric diamond patterns in red, pink, black, and beige hangs on a white wall above a glass display case.
Tapiz de Contla, Tlaxcala

Los sarapes y las colchas también forman parte de la exposición, así como textiles ligeros tejidos con hilos finos, en los que la luz y la transparencia adquieren un papel esencial.

Red and black fabric with a grid of cream-colored floral and geometric patterns, including crisscross diamonds and stylized flowers, creating a bold, repetitive design.
Colcha
Black and white textile with intricate, symmetrical patterns, including floral, heart, and geometric motifs, and a zigzag border on the right. The design has a traditional and ornamental appearance.
Colcha Otomí
A cream-colored textile with a red and purple geometric border on one side, featuring small dotted patterns scattered across the fabric.
Sarape de Saltillo, México
A sheer white garment with horizontal textured stripes is displayed against a wooden background. The garment has a rectangular shape and a square, opaque section near the top center.
Huipil Amuzgo de Guerreto
A vertical loom with white threads and an unfinished weaving in a geometric pattern is displayed against a wooden wall, with a small red information plaque to the right.
Telar de cintura de Chiapas, México

Uno de los proyectos más interesantes que se exhiben en el museo es la recreación de una Tilma Nahua del siglo XVIII, cuya pieza original se conserva actualmente en el Museo delle Civiltà de Roma.

La réplica fue realizada por tres artesanos. Su elaboración tomó cerca de cinco meses y representó un esfuerzo por recuperar técnicas tradicionales y preservar el patrimonio textil.

La pieza fue tejida en telar de cintura utilizando técnicas como el brocado y la tapicería. También incorpora materiales poco comunes, como seda y arte plumario.

A museum exhibit displays a textile on the left, woven pieces in a central case, and a mannequin dressed in traditional clothing in a glass case, all on a polished wooden floor.
Replica de la Tilma Nahua : Tlamachayatl
A colorful textile featuring a large, symmetrical, abstract bird with outstretched wings, surrounded by geometric and animal patterns on a dark background.
Replica de la Tilma Nahua : Tlamachayatl
Colorful woven textile with intricate patterns and figures, some covered with fluffy white wool. The edge has a geometric black-and-white border and touches of yellow, blue, and brown. The background is primarily dark blue.
Replica de la Tilma Nahua : Tlamachayatl

Como tintorera, disfruté especialmente un video interactivo con explicaciones y poemas relacionados con las plantas tintóreas y las técnicas locales.

Cito algunos de estos poemas:

“El color se pronuncia como un eco antiguo que aún respira en la tierra…”

“El azul índigo se sumerge y se fermenta, y cuando toca el aire, nace…”

A dimly lit room with a wall displaying colorful plant illustrations and Spanish text, illuminated by soft orange and purple lighting. The floor is wooden, and a fire extinguisher is visible on the left.
Video interactivo sobre tintes naturales

Nocheztli — nombre en Náhuatl de la grana cochinilla, que significa “sangre de tuna”.

Xiuhquilitl — nombre en Náhuatl del índigo, que significa “hierba azul”.

A white wall displays digital art with purple dotted waves and floating, colorful 3D flowers and plants. A wooden floor is in the foreground. The room is dimly lit.
Video interactivo sobre tintes naturales

En el tercer piso hay algunas salas destinadas a exposiciones textiles temporales. Desafortunadamente, el día que visité el museo estaban cerradas por mantenimiento.

Disfruté mucho mi visita al museo y sus exposiciones. Es un edificio realmente hermoso que une nuestra herencia prehispánica y colonial, además creo que poder observar la escalinata prehispánica es definitivamente un bonus.

Me encantaron las piezas exhibidas, aunque personalmente creo que hace falta un poco más de información. Si bien las piezas son hermosas y únicas, las explicaciones sobre sus procesos no siempre son muy claras. En algunas de ellas me hubiera gustado encontrar información más específica sobre su procedencia, las técnicas de tejido y los tintes naturales utilizados.

Sin embargo, es un museo nuevo y estoy segura de que todavía están incorporando información y realizando mejoras. ¡Definitivamente lo recomiendo! Creo que vale mucho la pena visitarlo.

A un lado del museo hay una tienda de FONART, donde puedes encontrar textiles y artesanías de muy buena calidad provenientes directamente de los artesanos.

Y como último consejo, les recomiendo comer en un restaurante que se encuentra justo enfrente y que tiene una vista muy bonita del Zócalo. Se llama Restaurante El Mayor y ofrece buena comida mexicana.

La entrada es a través de la Librería Porrúa. Después tienen que tomar el elevador y arriba encontrarán la terraza del restaurante.  (Dirección:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/wMrWPNE39vjfsDvN7)

A vertical red banner on a stone building reads COMPRA ORIGINAL, COMPRA FONART. Another banner below mentions MUSEO TEXTIL. Part of an umbrella and cloudy sky are visible.
Tienda FONART al lado del museo para comprar artesanías
Large wooden double doors open to a modern interior with hanging woven light fixtures, a check-in counter, and colorful decor, viewed from just outside the entrance.
Tienda FONART al lado del museo para comprar artesanías
People walk along a paved city sidewalk next to historic buildings and an archaeological site, under a cloudy sky. Signs and street lamps are visible, and some pedestrians carry bags.
Restaurante El Mayor visto a lo lejos
A street corner in a city with a large, historic stone building featuring wooden windows. People walk on the sidewalk near store entrances, and traffic lights are visible.
Restaurante El Mayor : Terraza hasta arriba

Museo Textil de los Pueblos Indígenas y Afroamericanos

Dirección: Calle República de Argentina #12, Centro Histórico de la Ciudad de México, Centro, Cuauhtémoc, 06000 Ciudad de México. https://share.google/Vmfr2qyb1g7Mb0bDo

Horario: Martes a domingo, de 10:00 a.m. a 6:00 p.m.

Costo: $95 pesos mexicanos (aproximadamente $5.50 dólares americanos / 7.65 dólares canadienses).

Rocío Mena Gutiérrez ha sido miembro de WARP desde el 2014 y parte de la junta directiva desde el 2022. Ella es una diseñadora y tintorera mexicana apasionada por el índigo y los tintes naturales . Instagram: @zikurialquimia

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